Bathroom Update
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The "before" shot. The bathroom, while functional, was left incomplete during the original conversion process. This is looking rearward. Behind the picture-taker is the composting toilet (which is also getting an update.)
Add plywood (11/32nds thickness) to finish the wall, sand and wipe with mineral spirits.
Primer, then paint with oil-based gloss almond enamel.
I'll cut down a beefy Boos maple countertop (1.75" thick!) to fit the available space (26" wide x 16" deep.) A Chicago Faucets spigot will deliver water to the 12" stainless sink. I'm using a foot-pedal valve to turn the water on & off. I'm not a major germ-a-phobe (seriously), but it's always bugged me to turn on water with dirty hands, wash your hands, then turn off the water by touching the dirty handle.
Water service comes in from the lower left corner, via 1/2" pex pipe. Rather than use a bunch of elbows to route the water to the intake of the pedal valve, I decided to make a nice curve and arc it over. It works best to make Incredible Hulk sounds while bending pex this way. The Bill Bixby Hulk, not Ed Norton Hulk.
I screwed the foot pedal valve (mfg by Fisher Faucets) to some scrap 2x4s to meet the required clearances for mounting.
This is a dry-fit of the sink. I screwed 2"x2" lengths of pine to the walls to support the countertop. The left side is screwed to 1/4" birch, so I decided to add more support via a vertical 2x2.
Cutting the butcher block to size left enough material for a nice back splash. I also lopped off the right corner to provide some extra clearance for the narrow bathroom doorway.
I had to find an extra long blade for the jigsaw. Cutting the hole was a lot easier than I'd anticipated.
Two coats of polyurethane later I installed the sink and faucet, and attached the water supply. Works like a charm!
After the photo I added a bead of almond caulk around the perimeter of the countertop.
Now that I have freshwater delivery to the bathroom, I have to figure out how to get the waste water out. Stay tuned!